Why is Michelin obsessing about star rankings when Covid-19 is killing eating places?

(CNN) – Yendani pafupifupi khitchini iliyonse yabwino ndipo mwayi ndi ophika ake anganene kuti pali gawo limodzi lokha lopambana pantchito yawo: kuti apatsidwe nyenyezi ya Michelin.

Kuyambira 1926 ku France, komanso posachedwapa padziko lonse lapansi, maulemerero awa akuyimira chimake cha zakudya komanso athandizanso kutchuka ndi chimphona chamatayala ku France chotchedwa Michelin.

Ngakhale sikuti wophika aliyense amafunafuna kuti awapezere malo odyera – ena adakana mokhulupirika ndikuwabwezera – sizingatsutsike kuti palibenso chisonkhezero china chotsogola.

Koma ino ndi nthawi yazisokonezo zamphamvu pamakampani ochereza alendo padziko lonse lapansi. Malo odyera makumi masauzande akutsekedwa, anthu masauzande mazana ambiri ataya ntchito. Moyo wawonongedwa ndipo maloto adasweka.

Ndipo, chaka chino, monga kale, Michelin ikupitilizabe kupereka kapena kuchotsa nyenyezi ndikufalitsa ndemanga zake zenizeni zamalo abwino odyera.

Kwa ena ogulitsa, ili gawo lotalikirapo kwambiri kwa Michelin lomwe silingathandize kukulitsa chitsogozo chodyera mu nthawi yomwe ambiri ogwira ntchito m’malesitilanti akuyamba kutulutsa mawu pazomwe amati ndizovuta zowononga kuyesera kutsatira miyezo yokhwimitsa chonchi. .

Pamene mliriwu ukupitilira, kutsimikiza mtima kwa a Michelin kupitiliza kufalitsa kumawona wowongolera akuyang’aniridwa ndi chiwopsezo cha coronavirus.

Monga nthawi zonse, ndi mkangano wophatikizika, wokhala ndi malingaliro okonda mbali zonse.

‘Yambitsani nkhondo’

Malo odyera a Ledbury ku London ndi amodzi mwa malo okhala ndi nyenyezi ku Michelin omwe angatseke bwino panthawi ya mliriwu.

John Stillwell / PA Zithunzi / Getty Images

Mphoto zina zapamwamba zidayitanitsa kale kuti ziyimitse ntchitoyi, chifukwa cha zochitika zapadera za chaka chino.

Covid-19 ndichimodzi mwazinthu zingapo zomwe zidapangitsa kuti chaka chino kuchotsedwa kwa The James Beard Awards, chizindikiro chodziwika bwino ku America chazakudya zophika, m’magulu awo a Restaurant ndi Chefs.

A Clare Reichenbach, CEO wa maziko, adatchulapo “zoyipa zoyipa za Covid-19” ndipo adati kuwonetsa mphotho “sikungathandize kwenikweni pantchito yomenyayi.”

Pambuyo pa kachilomboka, nkhondoyi, akuti, imafikira pazinthu zina zazikulu zomwe zikuvuta padziko lonse lapansi.

Pakati pawo, David Kinch, mwiniwake wa ophika ku Manresa ku California, yemwe adalengeza kale pa Instagram kuti akudzichotsa ngati James Beard Outstanding Chef.

“Makampani ochereza alendo akuchulukirachulukira chifukwa cha kusiyana pakati pa amuna ndi akazi komanso kusiyana mitundu komanso zopinga zambiri zomwe zimalepheretsa akatswiri kuti athe kulipira magulu awo ndalama, kuyang’ana kwambiri kukhazikika ndikulimbikitsa magwiridwe antchito,” adalemba.

Chifukwa chake, potengera momwe zinthu ziliri pakampani yamalesitilanti, bwanji Michelin ikupitabe kumalo odyera, kuyendera ndi kupereka nyenyezi zake? Ndipo munthawi ino yakusatsimikizika komanso kuzunzika, kodi nyenyezi zomwe zimalandila mphotho zikupitilizabe kutchuka komwe anali nako kale?

Mtsogoleri wapadziko lonse lapansi wowongolera, a Gwendal Poullennec, akuumirira kuti tsopano kuposa kale omwe oyang’anira a Michelin ali ndi gawo loti achite. Anatinso kuyang’anitsitsa kwawo ndi chinthu chabwino chomwe chingathandize kuthandizira makampani omwe akumana ndi mavuto.

Zisankho zomwe amapanga kuti azitsogolera chaka chamawa, akutero, “ziziwonetsa zamakampani ndi malo odyera omwe m’malo ena padziko lapansi akukumanabe ndi zovuta.”

“Imeneyi ndi njira yoitaniranso anthu odyera kuti abwerere kumalesitilanti.”

Kugunda kwamphamvu

Gwendal Poullennec akuti Michelin ndiyofunika kwambiri podyera panthawi yamavuto.

Gwendal Poullennec akuti Michelin ndiyofunika kwambiri podyera panthawi yamavuto.

MARTIN BUREAU / AFP kudzera pa Getty Zithunzi

Kaya ma foodieswa azikhala ndi chilakolako chodziwikabe kuti tiwone. Malo ambiri odyera ku Michelin – makamaka omwe ali ndi nyenyezi ziwiri kapena zitatu – amapeza ndalama kuchokera kwa alendo ochokera kumayiko ena omwe kulibe chifukwa chakuletsa kuyenda padziko lonse lapansi.

Ku London, The Ledbury ndi The Greenhouse, onse atanyamula nyenyezi ziwiri za Michelin, atseka kwathunthu. Ku New York, malo odyera okhala ndi Michelin Gotham Bar & Grill, Jewel Bako ndi Nix nawonso atsekedwa bwino, monganso Trois Mecs ndi Somni ochokera kwa Chef José Andrés ku Los Angeles.

Tsoka ilo, pali zitsanzo zambiri, makamaka ku United States komwe kutsekedwa mwamphamvu ku New York, Chicago, Washington DC ndi California zonse kumakhudza madera omwe Michelin amapereka nyenyezi.

Zotsatira zake, kutulutsidwa kwa ma 2021 Michelin Guides ku United States kuchedwa. “Nthawi yovomerezeka idzalengezedwa kuti matendawa ayambika,” bungweli lidauza magazini ya Food & Wine posachedwa.

Pakadali pano, wowongolera malo odyera akhazikitsa zomwe amazitcha “barometer yapadziko lonse” kuti azisamalira malo omwe akugulitsabe.

“Cholinga chathu chinali kutenga chidwi cha gastronomy yapadziko lonse lapansi kuti tidziwitse ndikudziwitsa za chilengedwe chathu,” akutero a Poullennec. Anatinso barometer pakadali pano imalemba kuti, panthawi yolemba, 85% ya malo odyera okhala ndi Michelin anali otseguka.

Ngakhale uku ndikusintha kwakukulu poyerekeza ndi kutalika kwa vutoli – kubwerera mu Epulo, 13% yokha yamalesitilanti apadziko lonse omwe amakhala ndi nyenyezi za Michelin anali akugwirabe ntchito – sizikutanthauza kuchuluka kwa kutsekedwa kwa ma terminal.

“Pomwepo, malo odyera omwe adatsekedwa kwathunthu ndizosatheka kupereka chifukwa ndiosakhazikika,” akuwonjezera Poullennec. “Zinthu zikuyenda ndikusintha tsiku ndi tsiku.”

Michelin akuwonetsanso ntchito zake zapadera monga “Le Bon Menyu” ku France, yomwe imagwiritsa ntchito zoulutsira mawu kuti zithandizire ophika omwe amathandiza osowa ndikuwonetsa malo odyera omwe akufuna kutenga, kutumiza ndi mitundu ina yamabizinesi.

Izi sizinaimitse kuyitanitsa kwa ophika angapo kuti Michelin achite zambiri kuti athandizire mabizinesi m’masiku amdima ngati awa.

Pokukakamiza kuti upulumuke

Shane Osborn:

Shane Osborn: “Sindikuganiza kuti ndi nthawi yoti Michelin aziweruza malo odyera.”

Jonathan Wong / South China Morning Post kudzera pa Getty Zithunzi

Shane Osborn waku Australia, wochokera ku Arcane wokhala ndi nyenyezi ku Hong Kong, ndi m’modzi mwa ophika odziwika kwambiri mzindawu, munthu yemwe ali ndi mbiri yodziwika bwino ya Michelin m’malo odyera kuphatikiza London Pied à Terre.

Popeza zovuta zomwe zikugwera anthu ambiri m’makampani, akuti kuyenera kuyimitsidwa pakuwunikanso.

“Ndizovuta koma sindikuganiza kuti ndi nthawi yoti Michelin azitha kuweruza malo odyera pomwe mabizinezi akukakamizidwa kwambiri kuti asayandikire,” akutero.

“Kugwira ntchito ndi anthu ochepa chifukwa malo achotsedwa ntchito, ogwira ntchito amatambasulidwa, pomwe ngakhale zophatikizira zimakhudzidwa, makamaka kuno ku Asia. Nthawi zambiri timalandira maulendo awiri kuchokera ku Japan patsiku – posachedwa timangopeza atatu pa sabata.

“Chifukwa chake mabizinesi ali pamavuto akulu kuti apulumuke, koma ndikumvetsanso kuti kuchokera kwa ophika, ambiri pamsika amakonda kwambiri Michelin. Ndizo zonse zomwe amagwirira ntchito ndipo ndi nkhani yabwino yomwe amayembekezera, imavomereza kugwira ntchito molimbika ndi kuyesetsa komwe agwiritsa ntchito, kugwira ntchito maola 16 patsiku.

“Koma ndi nthawi yakukondwereradi? Kuwona malo odyera komwe zakudya zitha kulipira madola mazana kapena masauzande pomwe anthu akutaya ntchito padziko lonse lapansi?”

Ophika ena amatsutsa kuti kuzindikira ndikofunikira kuposa kale lonse munyengo yapano.

A Gal Ben-Moshe, omwe ndi ophika ku Prism ku Berlin, ati malo awo odyera adakumana ndi zoopsa zomwe zidasowa pomwe Germany idasokonekera koyambirira kwa chaka chino.

Koma, akuti, lingaliro la Michelin lopatsa nyenyezi ya Prism posachedwa lidasinthira chuma chake.

“Nyenyeziyo italengezedwa, malo odyera adangodzaza mphindi zochepa, mwezi wotsatira,” akutero. “Zinali zopenga.”

Komabe kukhudzidwaku kunali kwakukulu payekha komanso mwaukadaulo kuposa zachuma:

“Zidatipatsa kutsimikizika komanso chilimbikitso chomwe timafunikira nthawi yonseyi, kuti timakhala tikulakalaka kwazaka zambiri,” akuwonjezera. “Patokha, Zatipangitsanso kumva kuti ulendo wonsewu ndiwofunika, ndi kudzipereka konse komwe timapereka m’moyo wathu wachinsinsi.”

‘Zolimbikitsa pang’ono’

A Gal Ben-Moshe ati upangiri wa Michelin udakali wothandiza pamakampani odyera abwino.

A Gal Ben-Moshe ati upangiri wa Michelin udakali wothandiza pamakampani odyera abwino.

Christoph Soeder / chithunzi-mgwirizano / dpa / AP Zithunzi

Ponena za ngati Michelin akuyenera kupatsa nyenyezi chaka chino, Ben-Moshe akukhulupirira kuti woperekayo akuyenera kupitilirabe, kunena kuti zitha kukhala zothandiza komanso kuti otsutsa zakudya zake ndi akatswiri mokwanira poganizira momwe malo odyera akusinthira ndi mavuto omwe alipo.

“Ndingakuwuzeni kuti momwe zidandikhudzira ine ngati wophika komanso malo odyera ngati bizinesi sizachilendo,” akutero. “Ndikungoganiza kuti kulandira nyenyezi nthawi yopenga ngati izi kumatha kupulumutsa mabizinesi ambiri ndikupatsa chidwi chonse pantchitoyo komanso kufunika kwake.”

Steve Zagor, pulofesa wothandizana nawo ku Columbia Business School yemwe amayang’ana kwambiri malo odyera komanso chakudya, akuti ngakhale malangizo a Michelin akupitilizabe kukhala oyenera munthawi zonse, atha kulimbana pompano.

“Michelin ndi chipembedzo, anthu amatsatira,” akutero. “Amakhulupirira. Padziko lapansi pano muyenera malingaliro odalirika osati malingaliro a Yelp okha. Iyi ndi kampani yodalirika, yodziwa bwino yomwe imapereka zothandiza kwa anthu omwe akuyang’ana komwe akufuna kupita.

“Kuchokera pamalingaliro amenewo, ili ndi phindu. Ili ndi mbiriyakale ndipo ndi woweruza watanthauzo wazomwe zikuchitika.”

Komabe, akutero, zochitika zapadera za 2020 zikutanthauza kuti zili kutali ndi chilengedwe.

“Pakadali pano zikufanana pang’ono ndikuwunika malo odyera omwe ali pachombo chamkuntho. Zangochitika mwapadera. Sindikukhulupirira kuti mukutsimikizira zonse zomwe mwini malo odyera akuyesera kuchita.”

Akulongosola kuti malo odyera tsopano ndi osiyana kwambiri ndi momwe zimakhalira nthawi zonse kuti pamakhala mafunso okhudza ngati Michelin angagwiritse ntchito njira zowunikira monga kale.

“Simungafanizire chaka ndi chaka, izi sizofanana ndi momwe zinaliri mu 2017, 2018. Kusunthika kwa anthu kumatanthauza kuti mindandanda yasintha, kukonzekera, maluso, maluso asintha.

“Chifukwa chake zokumana nazo ndizosiyana, pali zina zambiri zomwe zikuchitika, ambiri omwe amagulitsa malo odyera akungoyesera kukhala osungunuka ndikuchita zonse zomwe angathe. Chifukwa chake ndikuganiza kuti ikutsitsa chidziwitso chonse cha Michelin.”

Mbiri ndi Chikhalidwe

Vicky Lau:

Vicky Lau: “Michelin ili ndi gawo lofunikira tsopano kuposa kale.”

May Tse / South China Morning Post / Getty Zithunzi

Vicky Lau, wophika ku Tate Dining Room ku Hong Kong, malo odyera omwe amakhala ndi nyenyezi imodzi kuyambira 2012 chifukwa chazakudya zabwino zomwe zimasokoneza zomwe China ndi France zimachita komanso zosakaniza, akutero Michelin imapereka chiwonetsero chotsimikizika munthawi zosatsimikizika.

“Ndikuganiza kuti Michelin ali ndi gawo lofunikira, tsopano kuposa kale lonse, kuthandiza malo odyera ndi kupititsa patsogolo zokopa alendo – kenako ndikuwalimbikitsa pomwe zonse zabwerera mwakale,” akutero.

“Ilinso ndi malo ofunikira m’mitima ya ophika, kusunga chilankhulo cha chakudya chomwe chimalankhula za mbiri ndi chikhalidwe.”

CNN idafunsanso ophika ena angapo odziwika m’maiko kuphatikiza France ndi United States kuti afunse malingaliro awo pazokambirana za Michelin, koma adakana kuyankha.

Mosakayikira kukakamira kwa Michelin kuti apitilize kuwunika mozama malo abwino odyera ndi, mwa zina, chifukwa chazogulitsa, makamaka malangizo omwe amapanga mogwirizana ndi mabungwe azokopa alendo kapena makampani azinsinsi.

Atafunsidwa za izi, Michelin adatsimikiza kuti cholinga chake sichinasinthidwe ndi ufulu wodziyimira pawokha komanso cholinga cha oyang’anira osadziwika kuti alimbikitse zokumana nazo zabwino kwa “ma foodies apadziko lonse lapansi.”

“Zachidziwikire, chaka chino pokhala chapadera, oyang’anira athu adayenera kusintha ntchito yawo ndi zolemba zawo.

“M’madera ena, amayenera kuchedwetsa kuvumbulutsa zomwe asankha kuti amalize bwino ntchito yawo koma m’malo aliwonse, achita zonse zotheka kuti asankhe malo ogulitsira oyenera komanso oyenera.”

Maupangiri ena a Michelin a chaka chino, monga Taiwan ndi Slovenia, awonekera kale. Zonsezi zikatuluka, pali chinthu chimodzi chotsimikizika: Adzakhala, monga akhala nawo kuyambira pomwe nyenyezi zidakhazikitsidwa kale mu 1926, apitiliza kuyambitsa zokambirana ndi kutsutsana.

Chris Dwyer ndi wolemba komanso wolemba maulendo ku Hong Kong. Adalemberapo kale tsamba lolemba la Michelin Guide ku Hong Kong.

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